Plissage et Fleur 3 (Pleats and Flowers)
Hello, I'm Lune.
Continuing from last time...
I'd like to tell you a little about the time when I created a pleated model called "Shibari" using willow fabric for the Spring/Summer 2019 project.
In early summer 2018, I went on a business trip to a pleating factory for a meeting.
"I want to express a natural and relaxed feel with this crepe fabric. I want volume, but gathers make it too puffy. I'm looking for pleats that fit the image I have in mind. A silhouette that sways when you move or when the wind blows. A relaxed feel with sexiness..." Communicating the image and vision of the texture.
We immediately began creating swatches at the factory.
The first swatch was far from the image,
"Hmm... it's too strong, too hard..."
"Now, let's adjust the binding strength and position."
The person in charge gives instructions to the technician, and the next swatch is up. It wasn't bad. However, the tying strength was more uneven than expected. This is probably unavoidable since each piece is tied by hand. Since it's done by hand, there's no choice but to share our senses. Let's share our senses as much as possible during our stay.
After that, I created swatches using different methods one after another. Perhaps the fabric just wasn't compatible with the material? No, I wanted to try this fabric a little more, just one more step...
On the last day of my stay, I got a swatch that was close to the image, and after another meeting with the person in charge, I returned home. Phew.
Making binding swatches at the factory. Adjusting the strength.
After returning home, I will finalize the design.
Gathering, bundling, moving... Once the rough amount is decided, I begin the fitting in high spirits.
The body is about this length, the sleeves are about this length...Is this balance of the collar good?
Yeah, not bad.
C'est pas mal.
As I placed the fabric on the torso, I noticed something... a carnation?
Each part looks like a carnation petal.
The moment when texture spoke to me. (Last time, it was like a magic carpet.)
A journey begins in my mind, and I have flashbacks of IRVING PENN flower photos.
Photographs of the bewitching flowers I saw at the exhibition. Their decaying sexiness and breathtaking beauty.
My body is here during fitting, but my soul is traveling... like an out-of-body experience (lol)
That season, we created a series called Carnation, which included blouses, long blouses, skirts, and maxi dresses. (You can see them on the L'UNE website, ARCHIVES 2019 Pritemps/Eté.)
2019 Spring/Summer Carnation Series
A few months later I got the photo book 'FLOWERS'.
The journey of imagination continued, and in Spring/Summer 2020, 'BOUQUET de L'UNE' (Bouquet of Lune), which compares pleats to flowers, was launched.
IRVING PENN 'FLOWERS'
Next time we'll talk about racing.
